If you notice that water is puddling, you may be irrigating too often. Now - do I need to feed, fertilize etc in the meantime or will this only be necessary once the tree heals? Look at leaves leaves. I had an inch or so of river rock covering the whole so the string may only be a few inches into soil I can't be sure. The first guess was NOT that you installed the wick incorrectly. Citrus typically do this both in containers and in the ground. Ugh...is there hope or am I on a wing and prayer?? Once you start seeing some tiny flush, start additional fertilizing with Foliage Pro, about once or twice a month. Absolutely parched. Basically, how do I get this tree healthy again? This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Thu, Jul 31, 14 at 15:55. Any advise would be so appreciated. Can it tolerate being moved? Carefully un-pot your tree. This means that the older leaves will turn yellow while the new growth will appear healthy. Help! When wicking, I think I understand you put a string (or something) up through the drain hole but my pot is VERY heavy and sits on concrete. Help please. Wilted, overwatered plants are not always a lost cause. He is out there dribbling water now. You can pull off more fruit if you have to, to get the tree to survive. No water from the wick? The same fungus can infect the roots if the base of the trunk stays too wet, according to the University of California, Davis. When I noticed this I decided to move it to a place on my patio that only receives morning sun, until 12:00 or so vs it getting sun through 4pm. - I also echo John's comments and can tell you that i have citrus in a variety of soil (dirt, regular potting mix, the worst stuff), and always had to water water water in the hot summer months. It has been 4 full days since I've watered it and when I feel the tree's soil, about 3" down, it feels mostly dry with just a very small amount of dampness (by no means wet or soggy). I have been able to pot trees in very large 1/2 whisky barrels with this mix and have had zero issues with drainage. (then again if it is dry, it will be light). In any case, pay attention to how your lemon tree responds and learn what its preferences are. I'm open to suggestions. I took two mop strings and pushed them up through the hole. Ok so I just finished repotting it. Half of the leaves have dropped - what can I do? I'm glad your painting the posts to start. And everyone for the "hand holding" during this time of need.I'll post an update in about a week. Coming straight out of the bag, the potting mix is just going to be too dense and water retentive, even in your area. While this plant can thrive outdoors or in a container indoors, if your Meyer lemon tree has yellow leaves, you may be overwatering. Also while it's out, should I replace the soil so it doesn't have to go through that twice? It still remains under my patio where it only gets an hour of early morning sun. Also tell us how long it took for the wicks to feel dry on the bottom...As long as those wicks are up into the soil mass under the roots, it should be fine.. Once the tree strengthens, the roots will hydrate again..Then you can put it in sun again), Thanks Mike! You are going to get varying opinions on this one, but to me it looks like you have many dead roots in among the live ones. I'm going to post a few more pics of leaves so maybe that will help with a diagnosis. Then I second guessed myself, found this forum and posted my question. When that occurs, one can reyhdrate the soil by submerging the pot in water to cover, then let it sit there for at least 2o0nutes. This way the root ball eventually get a drink and absorbs the moisture. Your pot size looks good for the size of the tree, maybe a little bit bigger. I find it more successful using this method than to do a repot while your tree is in this state than what I use to suggest...Emergency repotting works most of the time, but wicking almost always works better.. By the way, if you decide to repot, Patty has really steered you in the right direction...Her plants thrive in her mix and mine in mine..We know the concepts of a well draining mix suited for our trees in our environments.. Either way, both due to the density of the potting mix. If so, will taking it out of its pot add additional stress and kill it? (Pic included) My nursery told me that it is being over watered and to remove 20% of the fruit which I did yesterday.Typically I have been watering about 3x per week, not waiting for the soil to be bone dry, watering when it is still slightly damp. This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Fri, Aug 1, 14 at 12:57. They are in varied states of coming back. Fruiting citrus trees are heavy drinkers! Clear weeds around the tree, and cover the soil with a 3- to 4- inch layer of mulch to promote water and air circulation in the roots, keeping the mulch at least 6 inches from the trunk. This post was edited by jen_g on Thu, Jul 31, 14 at 18:12. Prune away any rotten roots. Finally - what signs should I look for if it worsens or gets better? :(. These should be easily recognizable. Yes! They will be dark brown, mushy and possibly smell icky. How should I treat the exterior of my windows to help the whole house look better? Our weather has been a bit mild, only 100-105 and some humidity, but shouldn't it be dry by now?The lemons are still soft and a few started to turn yellow (not ripe, just not green). I like Pattys input and I am leaning toward her soil mixture vs a 5:1:1 or gritty. If it is a matter of the potting medium drying out to a hard ball and becoming hydrophobic, you are constantly going to have this issue. Check your pot for proper drainage and, if possible, create additional air space around the roots. The roots also look healthy from what I can tell but I also haven't seen them from the bottom. Shouldn't it be at least a little damp? If you are overwatering your lemon tree, where there would normally be tiny pockets of air interspersed throughout the dirt and root system, those spaces will remain waterlogged for a prolonged or indefinite amount of time. I have similar situation and I am also in Phoenix. See pic, I will say it again and again, everyone's willingness to help has been so amazing. If they were all healthy, your tree would be flourishing..I was thinking that maybe when you repotted it way back, you might of just stuck the plant in the new mix and the old one on that root ball has become hydrophobic.The water is running past your root ball and staying in the new mix,..That's why Jean say's to trickle water onto the top of the pot. The skewer/dowel test will guide you.The dehydration cycle takes a while to get over. This is because when you are talking about watering, you are primarily concerned about its effects on the root system. Very good. As my above history states, it started to show signs of sun burn on all the fruit that was at the top of the tree (yellow/brown spots that only occurred on the fruit facing towards the sky. Should the soil cover these main roots? Unless of course it takes a drastic turn for the worse, then you'll be hearing from me sooner. I have had the tree over a year and it has been very healthy up until a month ago. I placed the wick in at 4:30p it is now 9:30p and the wick isn't even wet. I would look for a solution to those brick corners. That gives me gorgeous container citrus. Ripe for some citrus fertilizer know-how? A sure sign of dehydration (what you were seeing previously, so you'll know that "thirsty" look). Or should it bounce right back? Here's a little history. The top bunch of leaves don't look as cupped to me. Beacuse the root ball has been disturbed, nutrient uptake/absorbtion may be delayed for a week or two. How do I treat these Dining Room walls that wont break the bank? Mike, thank you - i really liked your wording: "It may even lose most if not all the leaves if left to wilt just once,,,but it doesn't mean certain death..Just a slow recovery if properly cared for after that.. When I call my nursery I get a different answer every time and in the meantime I am watching my poor tree wither away. The roots have not spread into the new mix..It looks like they stayed confined within the old one and that is why your new mix if left to stay wet for days around that root ball..The roots are not taking up moisture because they can't in the old one and they can't in the new one... That root ball should look brighter and should have longer roots beyond the small ball...Roots covered in the new mix.. That's why when I repot, I try to take out as much of the old soil as possible and surround the roots with the newer different mix..If you were using the same mix over and over, then all you would have to do is pot up in a year or two.

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