I was at the AES seminar when Sean Olive and Todd Welty presented the Harman paper on multiple subwoofers. With small speakers with 4-inch or smaller woofers, you'll set the sub's crossover frequency at 100Hz or higher, and with speakers with 5-inch or larger woofers, 80Hz or lower. There may be differences in the ability of different pre amps to “drive” a sub. I have experienced this with two different low end subs. The two-channel all-in-one in the basement, where the analog rigs live, still uses the speaker level inputs for that kit, as does my computer setup at the office. But people solved this and it seems to sound good as probably many of you really compared. I guess much of the comparison is also depending on the ability of the preamp to power a second output to the sub. Integrates beautifully. Now put the sub there. All but the smallest speakers will produce output in that range. By connecting to the amplifier’s speaker outputs the sonic signature of the entire amplification chain is folded into the signal for the sub, thereby keeping timing and timbre cues consistent. My rca cables only have the shield connected at one end and I had the shield tied at the m700 inputs. I also ask myself, how strong must those resistors be that a 500W amp can blow its signal into them. These can take an analogue signal, do A/D, then do the DSP and then D/A to the main speakers and subwoofers. But I sure hope REL knows what they are talking about. If you have the cash and are not concerned about everyone having good bass, get a JL audio V2 and put it most anywhere. Of course, most subs with built-in amps have active crossovers than can be either used or ignored. I guess it would be a pretty bad signal, but under 30Hz, maybe this doesn’t matter that much. Even with 50′ of wire, after the room correction setup was run, it all fires seamlessly to my ear and there is no way of ever telling the subs are at the back of the room, the low end just emits from the front of the room where the Focal speakers are. You can also subscribe without commenting. The problems dealing with all of this successfully are far greater than any sonic degradation caused by introducing an equalizer into the signal chain. The amp doesn’t even know the sub is there. “I guess much of the comparison is also depending on the ability of the preamp to power a second output to the sub. A most convincing technology. i have been connecting the subs through the high level input, and jumper’ing from their outputs to the towers. I think I hear quite a bit, but I doubt, I would hear synergy aspects below 30Hz except phase issues. I don’t agree. What I didn’t cover is how best to connect a subwoofer if you choose to go the extra mile and complete your system. (Check to make sure this feature is available before purchasing a subwoofer) In this configuration, the amp’s power is not being used by the subwoofer, just its signal. Now for details of placing of sub woofers this would be very helpful. Paul McGowan is the co-founder of PS Audio (The 'P' ) and has been designing, building and enjoying high end audio since 1974. It works for *my* room. Interestingly, with my BHK signature preamp, I’m using the balanced outputs to my power amp and the single-ended outputs to my subwoofer – nice feature of the preamp to be able to use both outputs concurrently. High level input on a class D amp introduces ground loop. Putting subs in the corner is an obvious fallacy, can Dr. Toole not think in three dimensions? Then set the sub's volume control to provide the level of bass support you want. I’ve used REL subs for many years, because this approach is built into their design. Correct me if I’m wrong, but here’s my understanding for connecting high level to a sub with 5-way binding posts and an integrated that doesn’t have a TT ground: run speaker cable between the amp and sub for the + of the R/L and don’t run anything for the – of the R/L, then run a single RCA connecting to the – on the pre and sub. i would really appreciate opinions. Electrically, the main system doesn’t even know it’s there. IMO the best subwoofers will be acoustic suspension models and Newton’s second law of motion explains the major reason why. One option is that you can use an RCA splitting adapter where you will plug one end into the sub out on your receiver and now you have two outputs that you can run individually to the two subwoofers. The current powered REL subs, like my 15-year old Storm III, connects the amp output terminals through a 3-wire cable and Neutrik connector [unbalanced] to the high-level input of the sub. i know that won’t hurt, but somehow i get the impression that the subs’ cables don’t really matter. An active subwoofer presents a very high impedance load, so the amp doesn’t work any harder when you connect one, two, or even a line-array of six subs to it. Now since I plan to stick with this configuration, I presume that I need to buy another pair if Tellerium Q (from amp to sub) as I need to keep the cable quality consistent, isn’t it? The sub blends in way better. In fact, the sub was on all night and seems to have knocked out my internet. To my mind, using a speaker-wire input to the sub, then going through its crossover and out to the main speakers with more speaker wire is a common connection method, but that will degrade the signal more than using a dedicated external crossover between the preamp and speakers/subs. The newer method of dealing with this, introduced by Velodyne I believe, is to put a parametric equalizer/real time analyzer in front of the sub to trim the sub’s response to the particular room that it’s in. We all have our preferences there. But maybe…. Every consumer-sized room has a fundamental resonance (dictated by its volume), which usually falls somewhere between 40 and 60 Hz. I didn’t like it, always heard the subs “working” a bit (maybe it was my imagination). Thanks! Help! This is the only way to get it “right” You can adjust everything in real time and watch the results. If I understand their article, REL recommends achieving ground either by running RCA from the preamp to the sub or attaching the – speaker cable to the turntable ground like the ones found on the back of NAD and Peachtree. Nothing too fancy wiring-wise so as to be affordable in that area. If I remove the metal jumpers and make the connection of the Sub to the pre-amp, do I restore the connection between the pre and main amps by using a splitter cable from each channel, ie one side of the splitter to the amp and one to the Sub for each channel?

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