So it’s important to start with the truss rod (assuming it needs doing) and then if any more adjustment is needed then move onto the nut (assuming in needs doing) and then if any more adjustment is needed then move onto the saddle. The trussrod is NOT used to specifically lower the action … I don't do spam and you can unsubscribe at any time. Adjust the truss rod another 1/8 turn or less if necessary. Don't make a new nut just to fix a low slot—fill it! Doing this sometimes also reveals loose or uneven frets that need attention. While I think my ranting above is a good way to consider approaching a setup, there is a certain amount of ‘interaction’ between the action and relief. Understanding this ‘side-effect’ is an important part of great setups. Press the string down firmly at two points: the first fret and the 17th fret. “Relief” refers to a very slight, intentional up-bow that lifts the strings a little higher than they’d be on a perfectly straight neck. [13] Tighten the truss rod adjusting nut to straighten a neck that has an up-bow. Loosen the nut if the neck is back-bowed. Even when you don’t have a removable adjusting nut, always start by loosening it first. Black Friday Sale! The order is important because adjusting the truss rod will affect the action at both the nut and the saddle. Sight the neck to … In a pinch you can use a string as a straightedge. So naturally loosening your truss rod will create more bend, and tightening it will create a straighter neck. The neck of most guitars has what’s known as a truss rod, which is a one- or two-piece adjustable metal rod that goes down the inside of the center of the neck. Don't adjust action with a truss rod. You are signing up for my email newsletter so the understanding that you'll receive emails is pretty explicit. Don’t use the truss rod to change action. Build the pedal that redefined overdrive. Doing this sometimes also reveals loose or uneven frets that need attention. Now that relief is set, we adjust action at the bridge/saddles and there is a ‘consistent’ change along the neck. Keep the grease off of the exposed wood. However, with a one-way truss rod, if the neck warps away from the string pull, no amount of loosening the truss rod will pull the neck straight, because the truss rod only works against the pull of the strings. This also means you’re less likely to overtighten the nut by cranking away on it if it’s already used up all the available threads. 3) Check curvature of neck to determine if truss rod needs adjustment. Players: it's no big deal! This’ll give you a good idea of the neck’s current state. A little truss rod adjustment goes a long way, as you can see by measuring your string height before and after with a string action gauge. Despite the fact there is information around the web telling readers to adjust their truss rod to raise or lower action, a truss rod is not for adjusting action. You can read more in my, Like this? Some are non-adjustable, but most modern truss rods have a nut at one or both ends that adjusts its tension. A large gap will indicate the neck has too much relief and the rod may require tightening to straighten the neck.. No gap may indicate the neck is dead flat of backbowed which may require loosening the truss rod to add relief.. What does it mean if there is no gap? If it’s in a back-bow, loosen the nut until the straightedge lays flat on the frets. Here’s how to evaluate and adjust your electric or acoustic neck with a minimum of tools. Then play the instrument and adjust one, or both, to taste/feel. The truss rod should only be touched if the relief needs to change, otherwise you’ll have much better results by lowering the saddle to lower the action. Thanks a lot. Some are soldered on. Mark the adjusting nut to indicate your starting point, and to show how far the nut gets turned. Often a small change in one will impact how the others have to change. But in the Barclay article it states, "It is NOT a good idea to use the truss-rod to tweak the action," and "on all guitars, the action is adjusted at the BRIDGE." At this point, I like to loosen and remove the truss rod nut to clean and lubricate the threads before making any adjustments. OK. I’m going to rant a little this week. Also look for humps, low spots, uneven frets or other problems. Inconsistency is hard to work with for consistent results — the clue’s in the name. If the frets are too uneven to read with a straightedge, a notched straightedge sits over the frets, letting you read the wood of the fingerboard. With the guitar on its side, look down the fingerboard to check it for straightness. (Using muscle without first getting the feel of it is how some people manage to shear off their adjusting nut!). Loosen the nut if the neck is back-bowed. Tighten the truss rod adjusting nut to straighten a neck that has an up-bow.

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